In the kitchen of The Shepherd's Table, there were two Julian Vanes.
The first Julian arrived at six in the morning, light on his feet, humming something that might have been jazz. He prepped with a meticulous efficiency that impressed even the senior sous. His knife work was precise, his mise en place orderly, his demeanor calm and professional. This Julian could run a section during a hundred-cover Saturday service without raising his voice. He was the kind of...
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