The Degrees Between Good Enough and Gone
Chef Edward Ashworth did not wake up one morning and decide to lose everything. It happened gradually, in degrees so small that he did not notice until the sum of them had become a loss. The first concession was small. A Tuesday in September, 1895. Edward was tasting the sauce for the evening service—a demi-glace that had been reducing for eight hours—and he found it slightly too thin. The...
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