The first time Dr. Marcus Thorne heard the name Lily Mercer, it was in a copy of Gourmet magazine from October 2011, tucked inside a box of back issues he had purchased at a estate sale in Augusta.
He was not looking for it. He was looking for anything related to Southern agricultural communities—county fair records, extension service reports, the occasional pamphlet from the USDA about farm cooperatives. The Gourmet was a mistake, or perhaps a happy one. On page 142, in a column titled "Where Food Comes From," a writer named Claire Saffitz described a visit to a small organic farm in...
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